I’m not one for adventure. Yes, I’m a Frost, but for whatever reason, certain types of adventure just don’t call to me. Like outdoor adventures.
Don’t get me wrong– I like hiking and… well, now that I am writing this, I realize I really only like hiking. Hm. Guess I’m just not as outdoorsy as I thought.
Anyway, Taeko loves the water. I don’t. More specifically, I don’t like animals in the water. Animals that I cannot see swimming below and around me, no matter how harmless they are.
Going to Puerto Rico, Taeko insisted that we visit Bio-Luminescent Bay. There are only a few places in the world where you can see this phenomenon, so it was one of those now-or-never deals. If you don’t know what Bio-Luminescent Bay is, look it up. Basically, there’s this crazy algae and plankton in the water that glows when you touch it. You put your foot in the water and you kick around– all of the water around your foot glows. It’s pretty neat.
Anyway, Taeko was determined to go, I was indifferent, as long as I wasn’t stuck paying loads of money for something I didn’t care that much about. Taeko found a tour (after plenty of research) and after a morning of convincing, finally got me to join the bandwagon.
We were picked up at 6pm at our hotel by our guide Peter. We hopped into the old van and moved along to pick up the rest of the passengers. The tour was being held on the other side of the island, so we had a bit of a drive ahead of us, which is why we were the first passengers to be picked up.
Peter is an eccentric character. He is also driving like a mad man. He is talking on his phone, writing on a piece of paper, pointing out the sunset, and going 70 mph in a rickety vehicle at the same time. I’m not comfortable in cars, especially with crazy drivers. I switched spots to further back in the van, found a seat with a seatbelt, and thought to myself the best exit strategy in the event of an accident.
One and a half hours later, we finally arrived on location with the rest of the passengers in our van. Another couple, a father and son, and a big, obnoxious family from Westchester with five young daughters, one of which was crying even before she got in the van, because she didn’t want to go.
We all coupled up in our kayaks, put on our lifejackets, and headed out into the darkness of the harbor. Yes, the darkness. It’s nighttime. It’s really dark. We start paddling through an open bay where there are larger boats anchored, so Taeko and I are able to get the gist of this whole paddling thing (Taeko much more than me– arm strength was never my forte. In fact, no strength was ever my forte.). We are all paddling in a line– one kayak behind the other. It starts to feel like traffic, but without any brakes. Lots of “Sorry”s and “Behind You!”s.
We get to the other end of the harbor, still in line, and we find that we are entering a small channel. A channel within a jungle. This channel is probably 20-30 feet in width, and the entirety of it is surrounded by jungle branches and vines. It’s dark– really dark. It’s overcast, so there is little moonlight to help you out. Your only sources of guidance are the apologies from fellow inexperienced kayakers ahead of you and the small glowsticks that have been attached to the front and back of each kayak.
I find myself huddled in a ball at the front of the kayak, following a bobbing glowstick 30 feet ahead of me. Aside from that, I can see very little. I hear Taeko chuckling behind me. I feel like I am on the Pirates of the Caribbean ride in Disneyland, but without the comfort of knowing it’s foolproof and you’ll get out safe. Every few minutes I feel a branch or vine breeze across the top of my head and I have a minor panic attack. I try to stick my oar in the water to turn one way or the other to get out of the vines, but most of the time end up turning the wrong way. Thank God for Taeko– she seems to know what she’s doing and gets us out of the vines within a minute or two.
This goes on for 1.5 miles. That’s a pretty long time, but luckily I am preoccupied by my fear enough that the time seems to pass pretty quickly. As we approach the Bio Bay, each time we put our oars in the water, the plankton lights up, providing a secondary source of light (aside from the glowsticks). This is so weird.
We finally arrive at the bay– a big opening at the end of the channel dotted with green and red glowsticks from other members of the tour. We gather together in the middle of the bay and sit in our kayaks as Peter explain to us how the Bio Bay came to exist. I don’t retain much information, as I’m still in shock that 1) I survived, and 2) we still have to go back.
Peter jumps into the water (this is illegal and you can face huge fines, but it’s crucial you see a human body in the water for the full effect). Peter swims around for everyone to see– he is glowing. All of the water surrounding his body is glowing against the stark blackness of the rest of the bay. It’s really, really neat. We sit in our kayaks a little longer, putting our hands and feet in the water and swishing them around to see the glow. You can also cup the water in your hands and pour it over you to see the individual plankton light up and run off of your clothing.
My fascination has replaced my fear, and Taeko and I are in awe of what we are seeing. I can see her itching to jump into the water and swim around– something that I would never, ever, ever consider for myself. At risk of a massive fine, she decides against the swim. Soon enough, we all begin our paddle back towards the channel.
I feel like I’ve gotten the hang of this paddle thing. I know how to steer and I’ve been through this before– yeah, I’ve got this. I’ll be just fine.
Five minutes into the channel, rain starts pouring down. Not just regular rain, but literally a torrential downpour. I cannot hear much aside from the “Shhhh” sound that the rain makes when pattering on the leaves of the jungle, the water, the kayak, and my life jacket. Shhhh.

Taeko and I are both laughing out of nervousness and amazement. My eyes are wide, my jaw is clenched, and my lips spread in a wide smile. See photo.
The rain keeps pouring down, harder and harder. FLASH. Lightening. Lightening and water, not a great combination. But we’re here, and we’ve got no choice but to paddle back. We keep on paddling, this time my nerves are getting the best of me and we have a few more run-ins with the water bank. Taeko talks me through it each time, amazingly calm, but I don’t really listen– I just stick my paddle in the water, one way or another, and hope it gets me out of these vines. I’m the worst kayak partner ever.
With the rain, the glow sticks in front of us are more and more difficult to see. Most of the time I find myself just paddling– paddling in hopes of getting where I’m supposed to be. This probably accounts for the above-mentioned bank run-ins. I don’t work well under pressure.
The lightening begins to be somewhat of a blessing, in that every few minutes it strikes, and I get a sudden view of where I am, where I should be going, and if anyone else is within 50 feet of me. It is also terrifying, as each time it strikes, I can see all of the looming branches above and to the sides of me, cocooning me into this channel, full of unknown insects and animals. If you haven’t noticed, I’m not comfortable with unseen creatures around me.
We paddle. I should also make mention that we are now paddling upstream. The current is strong, especially considering the amount of rainfall. It also makes for a more difficult time steering. I can feel we are approaching the end, though. Hope is rising. The rain lightens up, and the lightening becomes less frequent. The channel is widening, and I can see we’ve returned to the harbor.
We maze our way through the anchored boats and make it back to the dock– which is not a dock, but a muddy, slippery, smelly bank. We climb out, and share our shock with everyone around us. Everyone else seems to be as mind-boggled as we are.
Did that seriously just happen?
We’ve got a one-hour drive home, so we grab some beer at a nearby store with another couple and settle into the van. We are sopping wet, muddy, and exhausted.
We drop off the first two parties nearby, and Peter promises he will get us back to our hotel within 45 minutes. He’s not kidding around. Peter zooms through traffic as if in a video game. The couple with us is in an argument– The girlfriend did not enjoy the tour. It was too dark, too scary, and had she known this was what she was getting into, she wouldn’t have gone. The boyfriend thought it was great. As they sip their beer in a tense silence, Taeko and I doze off in the back seat.
Before we know it, we’re back at the hotel, and within the timeframe Peter had given us.
We say our thank you’s and goodbyes and slosh our way through the gaudy lobby, past the well-dressed bar crowd, and up to our room.
Yup, Bio-Luminescent Bay.